The tips below are supplemental to the instruction booklet included with your Cup Racer. All numbers below correspond to the numbers in the booklet.

Since the body of the CR914 is one piece of molded plastic, it is necessary to check the hull for irregularities in thickness. You can check for thin spots by shining light directly onto the body and peeking inside or by running your fingers lightly over the surface.

Be sure to check the body prior to assembly.

 

3 Tips For Making a Sturdy Craft

  1. If possible, you should try to sand away the vertical groove in the bow (indicated by the arrow below), but if the surrounding area looks thin, sand down to the depth of the groove and then shape the bow with putty.


  2. Because the green portion of the keel pocket is thin, try to avoid heavy sanding.


  3. 3. When painting the deck, be careful not to get paint on the gluing surfaces of any parts or they will not adhere well.

    NOTE 1: For the gluing of all ABS parts, we recommend ABS or acrylic glues.
    NOTE 2: There is wax on the inside and outside surfaces of the hull. It is necessary to remove it from gluing and painting surfaces, but take care not to use Shinar or other organic solvents since they will melt the plastic surface.

    *It is best if you work up trough Step 7 before painting.

 

Tips on Step 2

  1. Make sure to sand the gluing surface of the brass pipe with 150-grade sand paper. If you omit this step, the adhesive will peel and cause leakage.

  2. Since the opening to the keel shaft is a little smaller than the shaft itself, it is necessary to bore it out slightly. We recommend a 6.3mm steel drill bit.

  3. The manual says that when you glue the keel shaft pipe into place, you should anchor it all the way down to the bottom of the keel pocket and then glue it in such a way as to make the upper part of the pipe meet the surface of the deck. However, due to slight imperfections in the shape of the deck, the pipe may protrude somewhat. Since the length of the pipe has been cut to fit to the length of the keel shaft, you should not shorten it. In the event that the pipe protrudes, wedge filling between the deck and the bottom of the boat so that the surface of the deck and the pipe meet. (Insert the filling, shim up the surface of the deck, secure it with epoxy bond, and allow it to dry.)

  4. When you align the rudder shaft pipe with the surface of the hull, it should extend out well over the deck.

  5. When gluing pipe holder ÖB to the deck, and when gluing part number ÖC,Å@refer to NOTE 2 above for best results.

  6. 6. After the epoxy dries, reinforce the keel pocket on the lower part of the keel shaft. You can check for particularly thin spots by shining light directly onto the area and looking inside.

    *There are many ways to reinforce the keel pocket, but it seems best to use Ply-Repair.

A Tip on Step 3

    For those who wish to strengthen the fit between the keel and the ballast, some modifications are necessary. In order for the rearmost tapping screw to reach all the way inside the slot, it is necessary to make the ballast screw hole (shown in the figure) deeper. (Be careful, however, not to shave out the ballast screw hole too much, or the ballast may wobble.) You may also want to reshape the surface of the ballast before attaching it.

    *Steps 4 and 5 may alternatively be done after Step 9


Tips on Step 4

  1. When installing the receiver, you have to stick it to the underside of the deck with adhesive tape.

    *Installing the receiver under the deck is the best way to avoid water-related problems.

  2. Before installing the sail trimmer onto the servo horn, make sure to check for good balance.

    *Since the torque of the sail servo is especially strong, make sure to secure the servo head screw tightly.

A Tip on Step 6

    It is best not make any bends in the piano wire of the rudder cage.


Tips on Step 8

  1. Before securing parts onto the deck with screws, be sure to check to make sure that the screws can be turned into the holes smoothly.

  2. Since the screws for the mast step are short, make sure that the shaft of the screw is sticking out far enough so you can completely sink and embed the head of the screw down into the mast step.


Tips on Step 9

  1. You can tighten Knot A without taking it off and retying it by giving it about four good turns.

  2. You can treat the end of the sheet by burning it with a lighter or by applying quick drying adhesive.

  3. Wait to deal with the main jib set until after you have completed the rig portion.

  4. It is not necessary to install the end snap of the main sheet at this point.

    *Lines with too much slack may get caught on the deck parts during operation.


Tips on Step 10

  1. Check the aluminum mast pipe for deformities. A bent pipe can adversely affect sailing performance.

  2. You only have to glue the mast joint on one side, but before doing so, make sure to adjust the joint so that you can firmly insert it down into the pipe.

    *A joint not firmly inserted will cause the sail to wrinkle.

  3. You should sand down all parts that attach to the mast before gluing them together. This is especially the case for the gooseneck and the boom vang plate, which require vigorous sanding.

  4. Be careful to glue the gooseneck in such a way that it matches the gooseneck part mentioned in Step 11.

    *Do NOT glue Pin 27 into place at this time.Å@Å@Å@Å@Å@Å@Å@Å@Å@Å@


Tips on Step 11

  1. Be especially sure that the gooseneck moves smoothly.

  2. Do not put glue on the boom rings that attach to the main and jib booms.


Tips on Step 12

  1. Those who want to attach Cleat AB more tightly to the top of the mast should make the screw longer or thin down the thickness of the cleat.

  2. To protect your sails against strong winds, you should reinforce the peak, the tack, and the clew before erecting the sail. However, this kind of reinforcement should be kept to a minimum.

    Reference Point #1: You can reinforce the sail by cutting out small pieces of sail repair tape and gluing them to the sail with quick-drying adhesive. You can get a moderate amount of strength this way.
    Reference Point #2: You can attach the batten with double-sided tape, but this may peel off over time. If this happens, you should reapply the double-sided tape and then apply a very thin piece of sail repair tape over the top. When you do this, be careful that the sail does not wrinkle.

    ÅñA tip for sailing your
    Cup Racer faster When installing the sailing ring, lock it onto the mast first without hooking up to the sail. After attaching the ring, hook the hole in the sail onto the small loop of the ring, and your sail should turn over smoothly.